Mora Spoon Knife Review

Mora Spoon Knife Review

Comments

  1. its called a burr happens with thin metal?

  2. clint wilmoth says:

    also what you may have gotten is a factory second, with mora and many other companies they wait until after the knives reach a certain point in their production to check them for the quality they want, some companies will sometimes sell at a discount the ones that didn't quite make the grade to make it to retail sale. these "seconds" will many times be scooped up by companies like amazon or others and sold at near full retail online. just one reason i don't buy anything online.?

  3. clint wilmoth says:

    a couple suggestions for you here, first go get yourself some wet or dry sandpaper in various grits up to 2000 for a final grit, get ahold of a hardwood board aprox 1×3 and glue yourself a piece of 8-9 oz leather to it(to act as a bit of a softening pad) then either wrap the board with the sand paper or otherwise attach it to the board. use this to "grind" down that crappy factory grind angle trying for more of a smooth convex edge, once you get it shaped, progress thru finer grits until you reach the 2000 grit, if you havent glued the paper to the leather you can now get some polishing/stropping rouge and rub it into the leather and strop the knife to a razors edge. as far as the back edge is concerned i would take a file to it and just round over that edge and mabey smooth it a bit with the sand paper. if you are even a little patient and willing to put in the time you can turn that spoon knife into a spoon light saber(well almost).?

  4. Jack Hadaki says:

    Not really corroding, it's oxidization (or scale left over from the forging process, it protects the blade from rust)?

  5. Silverfanatic says:

    What kind of wood do you use??

  6. Rick Schuman says:

    I can't seem to get mine really sharp in the way I could with my Frost knife, which, by the way, was made before Mora took them over.?

  7. Bill Sutherland says:

    Yep, you have a diamond in the rough. As someone mentioned, round the bevel a bit, adjust the back of the blade to feel comfortable when pushed with your thumb, sharpen slowly with a curved stone, and strop to a razors edge. Be patient, you have a very nice blade and there are numerous safe techniques in which to use it. I have been carving for 48 years, and every blade I own needed tweaking.?

  8. Ilias Hrissikopulos says:

    i feel that you have gotten a knockoff because i have heard that there are many knockoffs sold on amazon.com?

  9. NugatoryDreadnought says:

    I really think that you may have gotten a bad egg I've had mine for about a year works perfect didn't have to sharpen out of the box and that wasn't corrosion not sure how you thought that but yeah probably just a bad one.?

  10. The Blacking on your blade is what is left over from the forging process,(some people have added that it is added afterwards, it is't ) Traditionally Scandinavian knives have this left on for protection also tradionally knives are all sharpend by the user, is a kind of right of passage, (boys to men) Don't be offended, it's just their culture, I can say that Yes it is high Carbon steel but who knows which, maybe only the "Smithy" These are a notorious nightmare to sharpen and keep sharp, that's why after losing a thumb I gave them up!! you could try the Burning ember trick to help with carving harder woods. Keep at it , Good luck?

  11. Rebecca Thebo says:

    it's your job to hone the blade……."A GOOD CRAFTSMAN NEVER BLAMES HIS TOOLS !"?

  12. I bought one buts it's not sharp at all how did you sharp yours ?

  13. snowpuppy77 says:

    That does not look like corrosion.  That looks like a patina which is a good thing for protecting your steel from rust.  Why would you want to remove the patina??

  14. Boudreau May says:

    You got a good knife and diamond sharpener I have no trouble with. The top of that is just an over run from the forming process and all thought it may have been overlooked in the cosmetic part it will still will be more of a welcome than not with feathering so personally I would be happy with it. Back to that sharpening thing, I believe it's K-Bar thanks to "William Collins" makes a diamond file Oval on one side Flat on the other that is very helpful. Your ok no matter what and may I suggest "wcknives.com" for a really great crook knife plus you can get lost in all His video's ! You may already be on to Him Just thought I'd put Him in.?

  15. Cesar Alvarez says:

    Hi again, my recommendation on tools for carving spoons would be, like I said before "Flexcut" right and left hand hook knives.  You can also try Warren tools, these tools are a set that you change the cutting blade, but still use the same handle, they have a couple of hook blades (right and left).  I have used Warren tools for many years.  I suggest you try to get them through "Woodcraft" in the USA or "Lee Valley Tools" in Canada.  I have carved dozens of spoons, my children and many of my friends have spoons made by me.  Also I have taught courses in spoon carving.  One thing I try to get my students to do; is to leave the bowl part of the spoon to the very last. All the other parts of the spoon can be carved by almost any knife, however I recommend carving knives by Mora or Lapin Pukko from Finland.  Make sure the bottom part of the spoon is nice and round by putting it on the palm of your hand and do a circular movement sensing for high spots that would need to be reduced.  As you cut the inside or bowl, use your fingers as calipers so you can have a uniform thickness throughout.  Strops, either flat or round are good for mantaining an edge.  I have also try using a live coal on the bowl of the spoon, by controlling  where and how fast the wood is burning the bowl can be archived by later scraping the burned part.  Good luck with your future spoon carving.     ?

  16. Cesar Alvarez says:

    First, you are using the knife the wrong way; you should hold the knife vertically with the blade down with the sharp edge towards you.  You cut by making a rocking movement with your wrist, start with the knife at a 45 degree away from you and dig into the wood and bring the knife towards you.  It works better if the spoon is on a solid surface.  If this doesn't work for you there are some alternatives, which would require the purchase of different tools.  I'm reffering to "Flexcut" they have a couple of knives which are good for spoons and they are used as you have demonstrated in your video.  The knives come on right and left hand.  I do own a couple of knives like yours.  Generally I use my Tormtek sharpener, there is no jig for these knives so I do it free hand.  As other people mentioned before, practice makes perfect.  Keep up the good work.   ?

  17. kilianhzh says:

    the black stuff on the blade is already a "natural" protection?

  18. Marco Montana says:

    Mora knives are pressed out of a sheet, so almost all cheap moras have that rough spine unless they finish the blade which increases price point.?

  19. Rebecca Thebo says:

    a good craftsman never blames his tools…….learn how to sharpen it practice makes perfect?